Emphasis
Garment Design
Overview: This garment design project explores methods of
applying emphasis (focal points) in dress design. We began by studying examples from Western dresses from 1800–1920, then created a modern dress informed by the research. The final piece
was constructed to fit a size 6 PGM female mannequin.
Course: Garment Design & Construction
Instructor: Annica Cuppetelli
Project Duration: OCT 2022 - NOV 2022
Keywords: Garment Design, Machine Sewing
Research & References
Dress
1892 - 1895 (made)
Artist/Maker: Unknown
Original Owner: Lady Clwyd, wife of Baron Clwyd
Place of Origin: Great Britain
Material: Ribbed wool, pleated silk satin, velvet edged with braiding
and boning
Moving away from the Victorian era, the 1890s is a period of change.
Urban centers in Europe were growing and new technologies were
developed in the industrialization process. New levels of independence
also took place in society, and more women started to work outside
the home. Thus, activewear was demanded by making a model of
rational men's clothing, and the change in style also appeared in
clothes made for women in higher social classes.
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O362541/dress-unknown/
Techniques of Emphasis utilized in this piece:
Contrast & Isolation
This dress has two pieces: a bodice and a sleeveless dress. The
emphasis is mainly placed on the upper part of the dress, as the gilt
braiding contrasts the brown velvet at the square neckline. Isolation is
also happening here with the braiding since a large part of the dress
stays with a simple design. The upper part of the sleeves in knife-pleated silk satin additionally adds volume to the upper body, leading the viewers
to pay attention to the chest and beyond.
Afternoon Dress
1930
Place of Origin: USA (possibly)
Material: Salmon pink dotted cotton voile, cream lace, and steel buttons
​
Although technologies kept developing, fashion for women in the first decade of the twentieth century largely followed the fashion of the
previous century. It entered the Edwardian Era in Great Britain. The ideal Edwardian woman was tall, voluptuous, and strikingly feminine, and in the first few years, silhouettes continued to be dominated by the S-shape created by corsets. Tops were blousy and loose, the extra fabric helping
to emphasize this top-heavy shape. Sleeves were equally dramatic.​​​​​​​
​
Techniques of Emphasis utilized in this piece:
Contrast & Isolation
The emphasis of this dress is on the shoulder and the bust.
The delicate laces demonstrate isolation, as they only appear in the
upper portion of the garment and differ a lot from the pink fabrics.
​
Additionally, both the front and back of this garment have a secondary
focal point. At the front, the blouse, and frilly bodices emphasize the
curves of a female body, and at the back, the gathered fabric at the waistline contributes to the same effect.
Wedding Dress
Early 1908 (made)
Artist/Maker: Meynier
Place of Origin: France
Material: Silk satin, net, trimmed with fringe, lined with cotton and boned
​
This is the time that reached the end of the Edwardian Era. The Liberals returned to power in 1906 and made significant reforms. Women started
to play more of a role in politics. Dresses became a bit looser compared
with the ones designed at the beginning of the decade.
​
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O167093/wedding-dress-meynier/
Techniques of Emphasis utilized in this piece:
Contrast
Although most of the decorative components appeared at the bodice front, the square-ended train is more of an emphasis on the garment since its volume contrasts with the slim front; all the decoration at the front
consists of white which also doesn’t stand out as much.
​
On this garment, the bust is also the emphasized part of the body since
the collars are in transparent fabrics, which makes the neckline stand out and leads the viewer’s eyes there.
Design Sketch
Chosen Technique of Emphasis: Contrast
Patterns
Process: Bodice
Process: Skirt & Train
Overview
Details & Close up
